Here is the original shot of the railroad tracks with Mount Shasta in the background, it was taken while we were walking to Mossbrae Falls in Dunsmuir.
When I started processing it on my iPad mini I wasn’t quite sure how I wanted the final image to look, so I opened it in Snapseed and decided to at least balance out the dark areas while not blowing out the lighter areas. I started with Tune Image and used the following settings:
- Brightness: 10
- Ambiance: 55
- Contrast: 2
- Saturation: 10
- Shadows: 15
- Warmth: 10
It did a pretty good job but I wanted to open up the dark rocks a little more and accentuate where the light was leaking through the trees and onto the ground. I used Selective Adjust for that.
I then opened up the saved image in iColorama to play around and see what got my attention. I finally decided on using Form>Deform 3/35 which creates a ball with a solid color background of blue. Because of that I used the Shape Mask and created a circular mask and played with the sliders until I got this look.
I like what Coherence does to trees I decided to use that. I ended up using 11/11 and setting the Size to 4.00, Wave to 3.00 and Field to 21.00. Luckily I had saved the photo after adding Deforms because the app crashed (after I was done I hooked my mini up to the computer and saw how little space was left out of 32GB and went about offloading my photos to an external hard drive before doing a massive deleting of over 2,000 photos/videos).
While my photo was saved, the mask was not. I created a new circular mask and inverted it while in Effects>Blend and used Screen mode on the ball only.
With all of the new presets in the Effects>Light module I used 12/36 and lowered the Opacity to 0.80, the Intensity to 0.34 and X Position to 0.00 I also created a mask so that the sky and Mount Shasta didn’t get affected.
Since it now had a bit of a SciFi look to it I knew I had to open it in MasterFX. I added the Butterflyfairy first, rotated her and played with her size, position and opacity. I then added Nebulation and moved it to where I wanted and played with size. I then masked it out of the areas I didn’t want it before moving it below the fairy.
Before finishing up in MasterFX I went through the different filters before settling on Bloom, it made the image too bright so I lowered the Opacity to around 60%.
I was now ready to add my logo/watermark in iWatermark.
The final step was creating the Before and After photo in Leonardo.
List of apps used in this post and their links in the iTunes store…
Products used in this post (amazon.com affiliate links unless otherwise noted)…